I saw the idea of a "floating" table on the Internet, but most of the structures use metal welded elements, but I wanted to make it entirely of wood. I had to do some calculations - and everything worked out. I am sharing this idea with you, dear readers.
As the basis for the table, we take an unedged board made of alder, oak or maple (I have a red alder). We cut off two pieces of 45 cm long. We plan on both sides, grind. We clean the edges of the bark, process it with sandpaper until it feels smooth.
For the stand, we take a block of the same wood 45 × 45 mm in size. Depending on the planned height of the table, you need to calculate the length of each part of the rack. If the width of our table is s = 45 cm, the height is h = 50 cm, then by the formula (y = (s * s + h * h) 1/2) we calculate the total length of the rack. Then we divide this length by two and add another 2.5 cm to the resulting length. As a result, we have the length of one of the two racks on which the tabletop will be held. We process the edges of the posts with a semicircular cutter.
The angle of the saw cut at which the posts will be attached to the bottom and table top can be calculated using the formula (a = arccos (s / y)). Cut off both ends of the uprights at this angle. Grind the racks until smooth.
At the bottom of the table and in the countertop from the inside, we put racks and mark the attachment points for the latter. With a chisel we select a recess from the drawn profile of the rack to a depth of 0.5 cm. In the racks we make three fastening holes for self-tapping screws. We countersink the holes with an 8 mm drill for deepening the heads of the self-tapping screws in order to screw them in "in a sweep". We fasten the racks to the bottom and to the table top, having previously coated the joint with wood glue. We process all the resulting parts again with sandpaper and cover them with acrylic furniture varnish.
On the desktop, putting the countertop and the bottom sideways (on the end), we combine them so, so that they are located exactly opposite each other. We support the racks in a horizontal position and mark the places for installing the fastening rings. We screw fastening rings into the corners of the bottom and table top from the inside. We install the bows in the places marked on the racks with a single ring from the chain (photo 1) The lengths of the four chains are taken from the length h minus the remaining parts of the fastening rings. We calculate so that the length of the chain is almost end-to-end. After installing all the chains, tightening the rings, we achieve tension. We fix the legs on the lower part of the bottom in the corners. The table is ready.
The idea of making a bedside table appeared after I mastered brushing. Earlier in the same style, I made a key holder and a shelf, I decided to create a whole set of furniture for the hallway.
The frame for the bedside table is made of pine log 35 × 35 mm. It consists of three U-shaped struts with a cross member in the middle. The size of the stands - 35 × 40 cm. The size of the bars for the stand: 40 cm - 2 pcs., 28 cm - 3 pcs. We fasten the bars to the joiner's glue using the "oblique screw" connection. Distances for fixing the bars - 0; 18, 5; 34 cm from the top. The length of the longitudinal beams is 50 cm. There are 4 of these beams, they fasten the racks to each other in the upper part (photo 2)
After the frame is assembled, paint it with white paint in two layers. Then we cover it with furniture acrylic varnish. The varnish should also be put in at least two layers, because I will use the product for storing shoes, and it comes into contact with water and reagents from the street. More coats of varnish will protect the shelf from destruction.