While operating the car, the owner may notice extraneous sounds when turning the steering wheel. This may be completely normal, or it may be a harbinger of a big problem.
Any motorist is faced with the problem of noise when turning the steering wheel. In this case, noise can occur when the machine is on the move. It doesn't matter what the speed is, be it 40 km / h, or 120 km / h. The car can stand still, enter a turn, or the driver simply turns the steering wheel while standing still.
Despite the presence of the power steering, it should work silently. Slight hum or hiss is allowed in extreme positions.
Crunching, squeaking and knocking are signs of mechanical damage.
Causes of extraneous sounds when turning the steering wheel
There are many reasons that can cause noise, among them the most common ones can be distinguished:
Before visiting a car mechanic, you should ask yourself and find answers to the following questions:
Answers to these questions will help an experienced craftsman quickly and efficiently determine the cause of the noise.
One of the main conditions for the normal functioning of a car engine is regular and timely flushing of the engine cooling system, during which rust, dirt, sand, scale is removed from the radiator.
Not all drivers know how important the cleanliness of its radiator is for the stable operation of an internal combustion engine. Many of them sometimes add antifreeze to the system, being sure that by doing so they remove dirt and various deposits from the radiator. In fact, antifreeze only dilutes them, and with each new topping up, its effectiveness becomes less and less. Naturally, the cooling system itself begins to work less efficiently.
The result of its inadequate functioning is the failure of the vehicle motor, and this is already a very serious problem that will require considerable financial resources from the motorist. It is logical to prevent such situations by carrying out not an expensive repair of the engine cooling system, but its regular washing to remove the products of decomposition of lubricants, the resulting rust, and other contaminants.
It is optimal to flush the system in summer. It is not difficult to determine the need for this measure: antifreeze is drained from the car radiator, the color of the antifreeze and the amount of accumulated contamination are analyzed. You will see for yourself the state of the system and decide whether it makes sense to clean it or not.
In case of slight contamination and satisfactory condition of antifreeze, the system can be cleaned with distilled or boiled water. The liquid is poured into the radiator, the engine is started, which operates at idle for about 30 minutes. The water is drained after you stop the engine. After that, it is recommended to repeat this not at all complicated procedure a couple more times. An indicator that the operation can not be repeated is the color of the water in the cistern.
As soon as it becomes completely transparent, the event can be considered finished.
In situations where there is a lot of scale in the antifreeze, ordinary water will not solve the problem of clogging the system. It is required to use something more active, for example, a slightly acidic solution of caustic, lactic acid, or ordinary table vinegar. Please note - in order not to spoil the plastic elements of the radiator, its rubber gaskets, you should make exactly a weak solution (you yourself will see how much acid to add to the water to obtain a weakly acidic composition).
The sound of a dying starter is the most disgusting thing you can hear in the morning while sitting in a cold car (unless you accidentally turn on Russian Radio). Especially if the car with automatic transmission and "from the pusher" does not start it. The sound can be different: clicks, very sluggish and strained rotation, and even worse, not to hear anything at all. Sometimes the opposite situation happens: a cold engine starts easily, but the “hot” starter refuses to work. Why does this happen? Because the starter is also a piece of iron, and it can also break.
Let us briefly recall what a starter is. A starter is an electromechanical device used to start an internal combustion engine. And the main part of this device is a conventional electric motor. I will not describe the principle of its operation: I hope they were able to finish everything at school, and there they talked in detail about the electric motor in physics lessons.
Spinning the engine crankshaft with an electric motor is not all that is needed for a successful start. There is a slight difficulty: to start the engine, the crankshaft must be rotated at least up to 100 rpm, for which the starter gear must make approximately 1000 rpm. After starting the engine, the crankshaft rotates at an average speed of about 1000 revolutions (and even more in cold weather), while the starter gear, being in engagement with the flywheel crown, will spin up to 10,000 revolutions. The starter from such a speed of rotation of the armature (rotor) will simply fall apart. Therefore, this electric motor has one more detail - an overrunning clutch, which is called a bendix. It is arranged simply: when the starter is turned on, two bushings wedge with rollers on springs, and after starting the motor, when the gear speed becomes greater than the rotation speed of the electric motor rotor, the rollers can no longer wedge the bushing, as a result of which the motor is not able to transfer rotation to the starter rotor. It may sound complicated in words, but in fact the device that "disconnects" the starter from the motor is elementary.
The next necessary starter part is the retractor relay (essentially a solenoid). It performs several functions at once. Immediately after the current is applied, the solenoid brings the bendix to the flywheel crown through the plug, and then the electric motor itself is turned on through the copper contacts ("nickels"). Thus, the solenoid relay not only ensures the connection of the bendix to the flywheel, but also relieves the contact group of the ignition lock. The starting current is very large - about 400 A, so if it were not for the relay, the life of the ignition switch would not be too long.
After starting the motor, the driver releases the key (or button), the voltage on the solenoid relay disappears, and the spring returns its core to its place. In this case, the contacts of the electric motor open, and the bendix moves away from the flywheel crown.
In theory, it's pretty simple. There are, however, some other types of starters. For example, there was no retractor relay on the starters of old cars, so the starter was turned on with a pedal: roughly speaking, the driver's foot replaced this relay by pushing the bendix and closing the starter contacts by pressing the pedal. And then there is a dynastarter (in fact, a direct current generator standing right on the crankshaft) or a pneumatic starter. But this is not our topic. What can go wrong? Let's consider two classic situations: the starter does not work “cold” and the starter does not work “hot”.
Since a starter is an electric motor, nothing electromotive is alien to it. Of course, it's about bad contact.
As I said, the starter draws a lot of current. Especially on diesel cars, the motors of which are more difficult to turn due to the higher compression ratio (and therefore compression and compression resistance). No wonder, for example, on the early MAZ-200 with 12-volt equipment, the starter still worked from 24 volts (when the engine was started, two 12-volt batteries were connected in series). True, later this scheme was abandoned and this MAZ was transferred to 24 volts completely, but still.
The fuel consumption of Lada Kalina is different for each engine and generation. So, motor 1. is more economical than 1., but there is a loss of power. Fuel consumption directly depends on the technical condition of the vehicle.
Fuel consumption of Lada Kalina for different generations is different.
So, for a sedan with a volume of 1. liters, this figure on the highway will be 5.9 liters / 100 km of run. But with the city it is already worse - 8.14 liters. The mixed cycle, thus it turns out - 7 liters for every 100 km of run.
As for the volume of 1., here are slightly different indicators. The consumption in the city is 7.38 liters, but the highway is 5.36 liters. Thus, the average will be 6.4 liters.
For the second generation, the factory norms are different from the real ones, and they have increased compared to the first. Average urban consumption is 11.4 liters, but almost 9 liters on the highway. Thus, it turns out that the average consumption will be almost 10 liters, which is significantly more than indicated in the service documents.
Fuel consumption depends on the technical condition of the vehicle. The worse the condition, the greater the fuel consumption. Let's consider the main indicators that affect how much the car "eats":
All these factors are directly related to fuel consumption at Kalina.