CV JOINT is a lateral rotation ball bearing, not a longitudinal one. Despite its simple design, the hinge plays a very important role in the vehicle's running system.
The grenade normalizes the constantly changing angle of the mating axle shafts, which allows the front wheels to freely turn left and right.
There are two CV joints in one car:
There are a few specific tools here that you can't do without. To begin with, you need a head for 32, as well as a huge lever to unscrew this very grenade.
Next, you need something like a reverse hammer. The weight of the cargo is on the order of a kilogram. If it is not there, then we will go along the second path, we will describe it below. You will also need a device for removing and installing clamps, or pliers, or just a screwdriver, we will talk about this a little later.
Replacing the VAZ 2110 CV joint involves a preliminary study of the problem: what defect occurred in order not to harm the state of the structure. In practice, there are situations when replacing the inner CV joint of a VAZ 2110 does not bring the expected results, or during the operation of a new part, problems arise.
So I decided to cut something. Today I decided to change the hub, because on the old one, the thread for the bolts was licked, and so I unrolled the thread once, under the bolts from vw sharan. but all is in vain. in general about the replacement. we need a head for 30, a hammer, a flat and more powerful screwdriver, a vice (preferably), a small piece of pipe (or something like that) and actually 15 minutes of time. Let's get started.
And then the phone sat down (but I will say that the fitting is exactly the same, just the opposite.Do not forget that you need to hit the INNER clip bearing, and hold the lower part of the inner race with the other hand. Otherwise it will fall out. There is nothing wrong with that, of course, putting it in its place is very simple. The downside is that you will waste time cleaning the parts that have fallen out. Finally, don't forget to buy a new hub nut and lock it properly.
A failed rear wheel bearing announces a problem with a constant, often pressing on the ears, howling. It comes from behind and does not disappear when driving in neutral. As bearing wear increases, this sound can increase more and more. The rear wheel bearing needs to be replaced.
This work can be done most quickly with the help of special tools (pullers). If they are not there, then to achieve the goal, you should use the materials at hand. Consider carrying out a bearing replacement with this slope.
We hang the wheel on the bearing of which there are suspicions. We rotate it by hand. A wheel with a serviceable bearing spins almost silently. A faulty bearing betrays itself with a noise and sound "as if the balls are rolling in the bearing." The amount of noise and rolling depends on the wear of the wheel bearing itself. For comparison, you can hang out a wheel with a good bearing and listen to the sound with which it rotates.
- Extended head 30 with a long knob, or a curved box wrench of the same diameter (or a similar socket wrench, etc.)
To loosen the wheel nut.
- Fine chisel, center punch
To bend back the jammed edge of the hub nut.
- Three-legged puller (optional)