The chimney is a chimney that is integrated into a residential or commercial space. It is used to remove smoke from fireplaces and stoves. If you are planning to build a house or install a cozy fireplace, you will need a chimney, which can be purchased at. Not all chimney types are suitable for homes. Therefore, it is important to choose the right one that suits your home. Below is a list of the different types of chimneys.
Stone fireplaces not only enhance the aesthetic appeal of a home, but also add warmth and personality. Chimney masonry are older types that are built of stone, brick blocks, concrete or a combination of brick and stone, laid with mortar joints. The fireplace that accompanies this type of chimney is usually an open battlement wood-burning fireplace where all the firewood is kept. Masonry chimneys are among the top preferences of potential home buyers because of their charm and value.
Prefabricated chimneys are structures that are most often found in new buildings. These chimneys have innovative fireplaces made of sheet metal. A prefabricated chimney is manufactured at the factory and costs less than a stone chimney. You can choose from a variety of options. These flues are installed or assembled on site. However, not all prefabricated fireplaces use the same type of chimney. You can choose from the following:
1) Prefabricated double-walled chimneys. This type of prefabricated chimney consists of double metal layers, often stainless steel. An insulating material is then placed between the two metal layers.
2) Air insulated chimneys. These prefabricated chimneys work by minimizing airflow by keeping air trapped between the metal layers and providing insulation. Thus, the heat from the chimney is not dissipated.
3) Air cooled prefabricated chimneys. These chimneys are similar to air insulated chimneys in that they also consist of multiple metal layers with a space between each layer for air flow. But the main difference is that these chimneys release air, not trap it. When heat exits through the chimney, the air between the metal layers absorbs and dissipates the heat.
Sometimes, when redeveloping rooms, you need to cut an opening in the wall from concrete. Moreover, this must be done carefully so as not to damage the concrete wall. To carry out such work, you should involve specialists who know all the nuances of cutting openings! Now there are several methods used to cut openings in the wall. Let's note those that are most often used.
Diamond cutting is most often used because it does not require a lot of equipment. Enough of an ordinary grinder, circular saw. There are also special wall saws, with their help you can cut an opening in a concrete wall quickly. Diamond cutting has its advantages.
The risk of the wall collapsing is extremely low, since there is practically no large vibration with this method of cutting. The opening is cut precisely in terms of noise, it is insignificant, little dust is generated.
But this method has several drawbacks. A large amount of electrical energy is wasted. You have to periodically cool the device with water. Equipment and supplies are not cheap. But despite the above disadvantages, this method is one of the most popular.
Previously, laser equipment was used in exceptional cases, since its dimensions were very large. But now the equipment has become much more compact. So now it is being used more often. However, due to the high cost of the equipment, it has not yet received mass distribution.
The concrete wall is cut with a laser cutter. Before starting work, you must first measure what the thickness of the wall is, you need to find out if there are communications there. When you start cutting like this, you can moisten the wall.
There are no disadvantages to laser cutting. All work is carried out by one worker, within a short time. Almost no dust is formed, the noise is minimal, the edges of the opening are precise.
But, as mentioned earlier, the significant cost of the equipment does not allow the use of such a method on a massive scale.
Good afternoon, dear reader.
Not every driver had to take part in towing a car or other vehicle.
In practice, this leads to the fact that only a few drivers know the rules of towing and, if necessary, carry out towing without violating traffic rules.
Let me remind you that in the traffic rules the concept of "towing" can mean both towing a trailer and towing a vehicle. This article will focus exclusively on towing vehicles.
A special section "Towing of motor vehicles" is devoted to the rules of towing in the traffic rules, but in addition to it, the concept of "towing" is found in other sections.
This article will discuss the types of towing and related rules:
We recommend that you read: How to find out the address of the FSS by inn Towing trucks is one of the most difficult types, which can only be entrusted to a professional. The driver performing this procedure must not only strictly follow all the rules, but also have sufficient experience. If the truck malfunction cannot be repaired locally, towing will be required. Traffic rules clearly state that towing a truck is allowed only on a rigid hitch and nothing else.
The driver of a car that pulls another vehicle on an inflexible device must be experienced enough. But one of the issues of concern to motorists in connection with the concept of "rigid coupling" is the category of rights. Some people think that they should be with the letter E, allowing you to haul a trailer heavier than 750 kg.
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Let's preface our story about the technologies for sealing cracks in concrete with a general recommendation. Before undertaking the repair of a crack, it is necessary to reliably determine the cause of its occurrence. It may be necessary to start the work with the general strengthening of the deformed concrete or reinforced concrete structure.
Crack sealing technology
The first step is to clean the crack from crumbled concrete, dust and dirt. Next, the crack is treated with a deep penetrating concrete primer.
If the defect did not occur due to the loss of strength of the structure and is not located in the loaded zone, cracks in concrete can be filled with special cement-based repair mixtures. Such mixtures are modified with polymer additives to reduce shrinkage, increase strength, reduce setting time, and so on. There are mixtures with filler of various sizes, which can close cracks with an opening from 1 to 35 mm and even more. The cost of the compositions is moderate.
Very thin hairline cracks are recommended to be primed, plastered or painted over.
Unstable cracks in unloaded structures, for example, in a floor screed, are sealed with silicone or other elastic sealant.
Cracks in the concrete of loaded load-bearing structures are filled by injection of synthetic resins with low viscosity. Diagonal holes are drilled along the crack directed towards it. Bushings are inserted into the holes through which the repair compound will be pumped. The crack is closed from the outside so that the resin does not leak out. The resin is pressed into the crack using an injector. This method ensures high strength of the structure, it continues to work as a solid element. The technology is not cheap.
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Dismantling work requires not only the use of special tools, but also the appropriate experience. This also applies to the dismantling of old floors. It may seem that there is nothing difficult here, it is enough to use physical strength and a powerful puncher, and everything is done.
This is actually not the case. There are a number of nuances that must be taken into account when dismantling different types of old floors, from wood to concrete. Let's consider dismantling work with floors in more detail.
It is generally accepted that dismantling an old wooden floor is the easiest type of dismantling work. Of course, wood breaks much easier, but even here you should know how to carry out the work at a minimum cost.
To facilitate dismantling, experts recommend starting with the first (outer) floorboard. It can be completely broken, so that later you can begin to pry on the floorboards in the log area and pull them out.
In addition, there is a nuance when dismantling an old wooden floor - the removal of debris. If the floor is broken, the broken boards are likely to have sharp edges. It is almost impossible to take them out of the apartment without getting hurt. Therefore, it makes no sense to simply break the boards with a crowbar.
It is much easier to dispose of neatly removed boards, store them in bags, and then either put them in the back of a car or put them near a garbage container. Perhaps such a dismantling will take a little more time, however, the risk of injury when removing the boards is minimized.
Such a floor is quite easy to dismantle not only with a hammer drill, but also with ordinary scrap. Almost all old sand-cement floors break easily. It so happens that you can break only one square meter of the floor, and then pry it off with a crowbar, and hit the screed with a sledgehammer.
Since the screed almost always breaks into small pieces, it can be easily put into a bag and taken out. However, there are screeds that are made of very high quality, it just does not lend itself to it. For example, this is often found in a toilet or bathroom.
In this case, the only way out is to crumble it into small pieces, scraping it off. Such dismantling takes a lot of time and effort on the part of the worker. There is also a plaster screed in old apartments. It can be broken quickly, just don't use hammer drills or crowbars.
They are of no use, since they will leave holes in such a tie, but it will not split anyway. In order to split the plaster screed, take a sledgehammer, a couple of blows are enough, it will begin to crack.