Previously, there was already an introductory article about the HS101 oscilloscope, but now it will be supplemented and improved, and the set-top box itself is assembled on a printed circuit board with a connector, and not a surface mount.
Electrical schematic diagram
In general, it has not changed since that time, the current has slightly corrected.
Slightly redesigned to accommodate push-through components.
Was discharged from China, for more details see the article on ordering boards in Chinese offices.
And this is how it should look:
Download the project in AD: hs101_smd_tht_pcb. ip (password: site name)
Cool new board. The famous Blue Pill, but now with a USB Type-C connector the way you love it (the MiniF4 STM32F411CE6 was obviously the inspiration).
It costs more, but it's worth it.
The BNC socket (bayonet Neill-Concelman) is the simplest (shitty by the way).
The unit has compact dimensions, which allows it to be easily transported from site to site, easy to operate, efficiently performs its functions and in some situations is simply irreplaceable.
It will be about what a vibratory plate is, what types of plate exist, what it is for, and how to choose an option suitable for specific tasks.
Vibratory rammer is a vibrating machine designed to compact bulk materials of road bases, as well as soils.
The principle of operation is based on the vibrational vibrational effect of the working body on the upper layer of the material.
Due to a sufficiently large mass paired with vibration, the vibrating plate easily ramps a loose surface.
It happens in the following way: under the influence of vibration, smaller particles, for example, rubble, change their location, as if crumbling down.
The density of the lower layer of the material increases, the largest fractions remain on the surface, the gap between which is filled with small ones.
Under the very weight of the machine, the material is pressed directly.
A striking example of the use of a vibrating plate is the laying of asphalt, when for any reason the operation of full-size construction equipment of road services is impossible or simply impractical.
Construction sites are another place where the machine is used everywhere.
PlaceNameFeatures in the rating The best mechanical hedgecutters1GARDENA 600 ComfortThe most powerful mechanical hedgecutter2Stem 423555Best price and minimum weight3PALISAD 60588The lightest. Adjustable handle length 4RACO 4210-53 / 212 Corrosion-resistant coating. Long life Best electric brushcutters1Bosch AHS 45-16The smallest and lightest brushcutter2Makita UH4261Best quality3GRINDA PRO Line GBCP-53-22Best price4BLACK & DECKER BEHTS301High performance. Light weight The best cordless brushcutters1MAKITA UH200DWEThe most mobile and practical brushcutter2Bosch Ahs 50-20 liThe best functionality3Greenworks G40PH51The most efficient battery4Gardena ComfortCut Li-18 / 50Blade protection from damage The best petrol hedgecutters1Stihl HSCRION-16 best professional hedgecutters1Stihl HSCRION-professional price Buyer's Choice
Improvement of the territory of a summer house or country house is not complete without the formation of shrubs and tree crowns. To create unique elements of landscape design and hedges, a specialized tool is used - hedge trimmers.
Our review presents the best models of this tool. For the convenience of the reader, the rating is divided into groups according to the type of equipment design. Each participating brush cutter was rated based on factory performance and operating experience, which some owners have kindly agreed to share in their reviews.
The above described electric brush cutter, according to buyers, has many positive advantages, among them it should be noted:
As for the first factor, it is guaranteed by the rear handle, which is ergonomic and rubberized, which makes it quite rigid in the hand. This contributes to a secure hold of the tool
Considering the rating of the best models of electric brush cutters, you should definitely pay attention to the described model, because it also provides a high degree of protection. The cover protects human hands from injury during work. You can no longer be afraid that the engine will overheat, because the manufacturer has provided built-in ventilation that cools the unit.
Additional advantages include low weight, as well as high-quality blades, which are made using diamond grinding technology. The switch button is located along the entire handle, which contributes to convenient operation. There are no exhaust gases, which also cannot but please the consumer. You can use the attachment compatibility option to remove cut leaves.
When choosing a particular option of equipment, consumers quite often give preference to devices of well-known brands. One of these representatives is the brush cutter, which was mentioned above. Its cost is 4,200 rubles. This device is a garden tool that has been designed for cutting shrubs in an area or summer cottage.
PlaceNameCharacteristics in the rating The best universal telescopes for beginners: budget up to 20,000 rubles. Celestron AstroMaster 90 AZThe most versatile model2LEVENHUK Strike 90 PLUSThe best telescope for beginners to observe the Moon and the planets of the solar system3Veber 400/80 AZLow cost and balanced parameters The best telescopes for observing distant space1Veber 800/203 EQOptimal combination of price and functionality2Sky-Watcher (200 / 1200) Buyers' Choice3Meade LightBridge 12 ″ f / 5 Truss-Tube DobsonianBest Performance Best Auto Sight Telescopes1Celestron NexStar 8 SE Best Pointing Accuracy2Sky-Watcher Dob 8 ″ (200/1200) Retractable SynScan GOTOComfortable Transportation3BresserWe're National Geographic Best Price telescopes for children and adolescents1BRESSER Junior Space Explorer 45/600 AZThe most convenient height adjustment2Veber UMKA 76/300 telescopeBest price3Meade Infinity 50mmMaximum functionality for a minimum of money The best portable telescopes for travelers1Celestron Travel Scope 70The lightest2Sky-Watcher BK Mak90EQ1Many possibilities at an affordable price3LEVENHUK Skyline Travel 70Compact model with automatic guidance
Galileo was the first who thought to use the telescope that already existed by that time for observing celestial bodies. The magnification that his optical device gave was only threefold, but this was enough to trigger rapid technological progress: after six months, the scientist achieved an eightfold increase, and a little later - and 32x.
The main thing to consider when buying: a good telescope is one that is often used. Much depends on the observer himself, and skill, as you know, comes with experience. Before buying, you should decide on the purpose of the device, its design (stationary or portable), the type of mount, and the type of guidance.
The best all-round telescopes for beginners: budget up to rub
Devices from this category have relatively universal characteristics, which allows them to be used both for observing the planets of the solar system and for studying deep-sky objects. The lens diameter in the telescopes we have selected does not exceed 90 mm, which is why it will not be possible to see objects that are too dim, but there will be fewer flares, which means that you can use the device even within the city. It is also worth noting that beginners are unlikely to want to spend large sums on their first hobbyist device, so we will limit the budget to twenty thousand rubles.
Veber / AZ
Our rating opens with a design distinguished by its compactness, excellent light output and reasonable cost. The telescope is great for long outdoor trips, but you can install it at home or in your apartment. The eyepiece is equipped with a Schmidt prism, the picture is straight, not mirrored. The maximum magnification is 160 times - through such a telescope you can see lunar craters with a diameter of about 7-8 km, see the rings of Saturn, the clouds of Jupiter, and so on. The lens here is achromatic, due to which the picture is as clear and sharp as possible across the entire field of view - there are no distortions or coloration around the edges.
Particular attention should be paid to the eyepiece. It is located at an angle of 45 degrees to the axis of the device, and, if necessary, can rotate, fixing in one of eight positions. Thanks to this possibility, observation becomes the most comfortable - you can look at the starry sky both in a standing and sitting position. The picture is straight, not mirrored. The design provides for an azimuth mount, which even a child can handle, there are two micrometric handles that are responsible for aiming, and a viewfinder is also installed. Due to all these elements, the telescope can be accurately brought to the target. A tripod is not included in the kit, it will have to be purchased separately.
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It is good if the installation of ebb windows on plastic windows is carried out in accordance with the law. As is often the case in Russia, everyone wants to get money, but only a few want to work it out.
Probably, many people do not understand the very formulation of the question. We already had installers, attached the frame to the opening, and we need to install an ebb. What else is the seam of a plastic window? Why is this? Explaining. According to GOST 30971, which is successfully ignored by most installers due to the fact that Appendix B of the document is recommended, general rules for making joints, seams and joints are described. Here's what it says in brief:
Seams are protected from moisture penetration from all sides. From the inside and outside, it is, first of all, a vapor barrier membrane that does not allow moisture to penetrate into the seam, but in the opposite direction, steam is dosed through. This is basic information about construction, for more information about the idea of draining sandwiches of building structures, read the sections on frame houses. But the vapor barrier is not the only material. And here's the thing. The membrane must be glued with one end to the profile, the other to the window opening. But! At the place where the window quarter fits, we have no plane, only a gap. It would seem that you can stick a vapor barrier membrane on top, but what about the appearance? And how to fix it? Platbands and slopes? Too difficult, so many standards recommend the use of PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape). It is glued to the frame itself or a quarter on three sides of the perimeter (excluding part of the low tide). Expanding over time, the tape completely clogs the access for water to the inside of the seam. Finally, on the side of the wall, the waterproofing is ensured by treatment with a special primer. This soil should not allow water to pass through.
If you have successfully selected and installed newfangled plastic windows for the finished architecture of the building, slopes, canopies and ebb tides, such work can be considered unfinished.
Firstly, if you do not know what an ebb and flow at a window is, for what purpose they are installed, you need to apply for the information offered on our website. In everyday life, ordinary citizens call ebb tides window sills. But if you look at it from a logical point of view, the ebb is necessary to drain water from the outside of the window. That is, the water will not stagnate in the gaps of the window opening and the operation of the frame will last for a longer period. If the window is plastic, you should install a plastic sill. This technique will give the window a finished look and fit into the architectural appearance of the building.
In order for your window to be fully protected from atmospheric precipitation, it is not enough to be limited to one low tide. Care must be taken to install the visor at the top of the window. At the present time, there is a wide variety of materials for the manufacture of visors and ebbs - this is PVC, galvanized sheet with a plastisol or polyester coating
To determine which auxiliary elements are better for installing on a plastic window, they need to be matched with the color and material of manufacture of the window itself, as well as pay attention to the window ensemble to harmoniously fit into the architectural appearance of the building
Installing window tides
Slopes are an equally important part of the processing of the area around the perimeter of the window opening. Due to the fact that the thickness of a wooden window is much thicker than a PVC window, when replacing an old window with a new one, a forced problem appears - this is the finishing of the slopes