The technology of pouring a self-leveling floor on a wooden base

The self-leveling floor brings notes of sophistication, modern style, good quality to the interior of a wooden house. You can do the installation of self-leveling self-leveling floors on a wooden base with your own hands. This article will tell you which mixture to choose, how to properly carry out the preparatory and installation work.

Self-leveling floor on a wooden base

The rough wooden base is pre-prepared before pouring. It should be even, without potholes, crevices, cracks. To obtain a smooth surface, they are "sewn up" with chipboards.

It is important to know that it is possible to pour the floor on chipboard, although there are nuances that affect the performance of work, the durability of the coating:

  • When laying slabs, a millimeter gap is left between their joints. As the temperature fluctuates, the chipboard changes its linear dimensions. Its edges in contact with the adjacent slab can rise upward, thereby deforming the surface of the self-leveling floor.
  • The board absorbs moisture. Therefore, it is pre-treated with waterproofing compounds or covered with plastic wrap, waterproofing materials.
  • Paint and grease stains are removed from the surface of the subfloor, which reduce the quality of adhesion of the components of the bulk mixture.
  • A damper film is laid around the perimeter of the room. Thus, a "floating" floor is created without deformation and cracking.

Also, to create a rough base for a self-leveling floor on wooden floors, use a board, OSB, plywood, fiberboard.

How to choose a mixture, varieties, what to look for

They are divided by composition, properties and purpose into 4 varieties, which have their pros and cons:

· resistant to chemicals, sudden temperature changes, mechanical stress;

usable 2 hours after pouring;

The technology of pouring a self-leveling floor on a wooden base

Despite the fact that now there are many modern building materials, plywood still firmly occupies its niche. Many options for sheet sizes and thicknesses greatly simplify installation. And the possibility of any finishing adds even more points in its favor.

Plywood putty for subsequent finishing

Plywood is a wood-based building material consisting of veneer layers glued together. The veneer can be coniferous, birch or deciduous, it is glued together in different directions to increase the bending strength of the final sheet.

Is it possible to do this, process features

If you plan to paint the walls and ceiling, and plywood sheets were used during the construction, then the question is quite reasonable whether it is possible to putty plywood. Experts believe that it is not only possible, but also necessary. The main feature is that it is a wooden material and it is important to choose the right building mixtures for work.

Putty for plywood is allowed only on certain grades of sheets (FSF, FSF-TV, FB, BBS, FC), since moisture resistance is a mandatory requirement for the material.

Like other wood-based materials, plywood must be impregnated with deep penetration soil with antiseptic properties. Particular attention is paid to the joints of the sheets.

The filling process itself does not differ from working with other surfaces.

Wood fiber board finishing technology

Before starting to putty on plywood, all sheets must be thoroughly dedusted and treated with a moisture-resistant wood primer twice. Sheets can rarely be adjusted absolutely evenly and if there are differences, then they need to be sanded before leveling.

Then the gaps between the sheets are filled with putty, fasteners and other irregularities, if any, are covered. If the distance between the sheets is large, then a serpyanka is glued to the first layer of the mixture. After re-puttying and drying of the solution, sand the surface with emery paper.

Self-leveling floor on a wooden base - features, can it be poured over chipboard. How to choose a mixture, varieties, what to look for, Preparation of the base, requirements for the rough base. Pouring a self-leveling floor on boards or plywood

A do-it-yourself kitchen countertop is an integral part of a kitchen set. The appearance and service life of kitchen furniture depends on the countertop. Therefore, it must be durable, steam and moisture resistant, and cope well with high temperatures. What materials are suitable for DIY countertops? How to make a kitchen work surface with your own hands - read below.

DIY kitchen worktop

The most economical option would be to manufacture chipboard countertops. In order to calculate the material, you need to create a drawing of the future product. As a rule, the countertop is made 40-60 cm wide, depending on the area of ​​the kitchen, the personal preferences of the owners. It is better if the height of the sides of the product is in the range from 2.5 to 4 cm. / P>

It is best to make the countertop solid, so it will be more durable and last longer.

If the tabletop consists of several elements, they must be fastened with a construction stapler. In addition, to assemble the tabletop, you will need a felt-tip pen or pencil, a building ruler, a tape measure, and a jigsaw.

Making a chipboard kitchen worktop is carried out in several stages:

  • Chipboard sheets are marked in accordance with the prepared drawings of the future product;
  • Blanks are cut from sheets using a jigsaw;
  • If necessary, blanks are fastened between themselves with a stapler, while the joints are rubbed with sandpaper.

In order to cut a hole in the countertop for the sink, you will need to make a cardboard template. It will be possible to cut a hole according to the template using a jigsaw. In this case, the edges of the slot will need to be processed with sandpaper.

Chipboard worktop

In order for the working kitchen surface made of chipboard to be steam, moisture and heat resistant, it is covered with special materials. At the same time, the working surface is processed both from the front and from the inside. As a rule, self-adhesive films are chosen for processing the back side.

The most popular methods for finishing a kitchen work surface include:

  • Painting. The worktop can be painted in several layers. At the same time, it is better to choose water-based coatings. Before painting, the product will need to be cleaned and primed.
  • Lamination. For laminating chipboard at home, use laminated paper, paper film impregnated with synthetic thermosetting resins.
  • Veneering. Kitchen countertops are veneered with thin plates of valuable varieties of wood (oak, maple, beech, alder). The worktops finished in this way are environmentally friendly, attractive and reliable, but they require special care.

A little about recycling paper waste

Many of us remember how, during the Soviet era, waste paper was regularly collected in schools and enterprises. Moreover, with its search, as a rule, there were no special problems. After all, a person, both at home and at work, is constantly faced with paper in the form of documents, newspapers, magazines, books, brochures and brochures, packaging for various goods, napkins, etc.

In our country, as a rule, this type of waste is simply taken to a landfill, where it is burned or rotted in the rain and snow.

At the same time, paper waste is recycled in most European countries. Thanks to this, firms doing this have the opportunity to receive a good and stable income. So, according to the latest research, about half of all European paper is made from recycled materials.

Of course, much of these results are a consequence of the pressure of the "green", requiring the conservation of forests and maximum recycling of unnecessary paper. In Russia, however, the reception of recyclable materials and their further use are not so well developed. Therefore, entrepreneurs have every opportunity to start such a business and earn good money. First of all, you need to draw up a detailed business plan.

What types of waste do you need a license for?

First of all, it is worth noting that there is no such concept as “waste paper” in the current legislation. An exception is the Tax Code of the Russian Federation, which in its article 149 indicates that waste paper includes:

  • waste from paper and cardboard arising from production and consumption;
  • paper, cardboard, printing products and any business papers that are discarded and out of use.

Waste paper is waste, which means you need a waste license

In the Law No. 89-FZ "On Waste" itself, only the general concept of "waste" is valid, meaning by it any items and substances that appear during production processes, during the performance of work or in the process of rendering services, either in the process of consumption. The specified objects and substances must be removed, intended for this or removed. In this case, it does not matter what materials and raw materials these products and substances consist of. But it is important what class of hazard they belong to, since this is associated with the need, in particular, to obtain a license to accept waste paper or the absence of this need.

There are only 5 hazard classes (based on article 4. of the law of the Russian Federation No. 89-FZ), where the V-th class is assigned to waste that does not pose a threat to the environment.

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Community for posts that were previously on Pikabu.

Well, the correct airplane will fly past a crumpled piece of paper. of course, if we are talking about one sheet of paper.

any development should be appropriate. There is no point in making a Ken Blackburn paper plane when exactly the same goal can be achieved with less effort and time.

Yes, almost any airplane made of a4 sheet will fly past a wad of paper from a4 sheet.

Box, box, box

"Air Hunter" made of paper in minutes!

Origami Zero Fighter (Satoshi Kamiya)

The model was laid down last week in time for the anniversary of the attack on Pearl Harbor, December 7th.

Mitsubishi A6M "Zero" (Japanese 零 式 艦上 戦 闘 機 Rei-shiki kanjo: sento: ki) is a light carrier-based fighter of the Second World War of the Imperial Japanese Navy. Designed by Jiro Horikoshi at Mitsubishi. Codename "Zeke" or "Zero" (Russian "Zeke" or "Zero"). Serially produced from 1940 to 1945, and became the most massive carrier-based fighter in Japan. In the early years of the war, it had an overwhelming advantage over the Allied aircraft. Obsolete by 1944, used for kamikaze attacks in the last months of the war.

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