The oxygen concentration sensor (lambda probe) is installed on the exhaust manifold. The sensor measures the oxygen content in the exhaust gases and converts the measured value into a voltage signal that is fed to the electronic engine control unit. Using the sensor signals, the controller controls the fuel injection in such a way as to obtain the calculated air-fuel ratio.
I thought about this for a long time, read endless posts on the forums on the topic of lambda and its dependence on fuel consumption and realized that until I try it myself, I will not find out! The general meaning of the lambda boils down to the fact that this sensor determines the oxygen content in the exhaust, according to its readings, the electronic engine control unit corrects the fuel-air mixture and if it fails, the consumption may increase almost 2 times! Since I was bothered by the flow - 9. liters in the drain in the summer and up to 11 in the drain in the winter. The machine is sluggish, pulls poorly uphill and immediately heats up to 100 degrees. In the smell of the exhaust, one could clearly feel unburned fuel like on a two-stroke motorcycle))) Yes, I understand that I do not ride a lot, a lot of benzene takes over heating, a lot depends on the driving style and much more, but still I do not have a wheelchair and the principle of stock 8-valve engine 21114 about 80. I can’t squeeze out the horses, physically I can’t do anything. Mogzi ECU BOSCH 7..
So how do you check if the sensor is working properly?
It is necessary to connect a voltmeter to one wire of the sensor and to the car body. start the engine and observe the readings, there are several defining characteristics:
1. voltage range from 0V to 1V; 2. on a muffled engine, readings are 0.45-0.55V; - small deviations are not critical. ... on a warm engine, after starting and letting it run for 2-3 minutes, the readings should fluctuate from 0V to 1V. When you press the gas or abruptly release the gas, the voltage should not go beyond 0V-1V. The rendering should not stand still, should constantly change, and the range from 0.2V to 0.75V should jump very quickly - if the voltmeter is digital, then you may not see them, if it is analog, then the arrow should not linger there.
If these conditions are met, the DC is operational, the system carries out lambda regulation.
On diagnostics of the oxygen sensor (for E-2) in "garage" conditions: 1. Disconnect the lambda wire when the engine is warm and idling. ... once the idle speed should change, it should become uneven, floating. ... The exhaust gas apax (with a working and installed catalyst) should change from acetone-sweet to "motorcycle" (as if a motorcycle passed next to it) 4. If B. fuel consumption will immediately grow madly - from 0. -0. l / h by 2. -2. l / h ... the "check engine" amp is off, there are no errors in the BC. ... When the wire is connected, the speed should become smoother almost immediately, and the exhaust smell will return to normal after 2-3 minutes. If you have all of the above symptoms, the sensor is working properly! Some of the information was taken from the user LeXa-Malibu
I'll tell you right away that I have Euro - 2 and I have one sensor, not 2 as for Euro - 3. At the same time, the readings of the DMRV sensor are not encouraging and go beyond the norm! at the moment the voltage on the mass air flow sensor is 1. 8-1. 7
From the LC-forum information: At an average speed of 15 km / h - 12.7 l / 100 km At an average speed of 16 km / h - 12.3 l / 100 km At an average speed of 17 km / h - 12 , 0 l / 100 km At an average speed of 19 km / h - 11.7 l / 100 km At an average speed of 21 km / h - 10.0 l / 100 km At an average speed of 25 km / h - 9.5 l / 100 km At an average speed 26 km / h - 9.3 l / 100 km At an average speed of 27 km / h - 9.1 l / 100 km At an average speed of 28 km / h - 9.0 l / 100 km At an average speed of 31 km / h - 8.7 l / 100 km At an average speed of 32 km / h - 8.5 l / 100 km At an average speed of 33 km / h - 8.4 l / 100 km At an average speed of 34 km / h - 8.3 l / 100 km At an average speed of 35 km / hour - 8.1 l / 100 km At an average speed of 36 km / h - 8.0 l / 100 km At an average speed of 37 km / h - 7.9 l / 100 km I will tell you the tabular data on my personal observations and calculations are summarized to the maximum permissible with fully functional sensors and regardless of weather conditions. Moreover, in winter, you can safely add LITER to this table! I advise you to warm up for at least 10 minutes in winter, so that whoever does not say or propagate anything there. I remember the video of Nail Poroshin from Togliatti that his Lancer 9 does not need warming up at all. And he is a very competent carburetor! Friends, it's up to you. Don't break!
Welcome! The oxygen sensor is still a necessary sensor, but some motorists come and ask to turn it off so that the car goes faster, in fact, the car will become faster, since the oxygen sensor is designed to make the working mixture lean, due to which the exhaust gases will fly out into the atmosphere cleaner (ecology does not suffer in this regard), we will give an example so that you understand better, notice when nothing carburetor cars go faster than injection injection, provided that l. ., both engines will be the same, all this is connected precisely with the oxygen sensor, precisely because it depletes the mixture, the car cannot show all its drenched, but thanks to it the ecology does not suffer, in fact, this sensor is for nothing else and is not needed, it works on the principle of exhaust gases, i.e., this sensor is wrapped in a receiving pipe and if the exhaust gases come out too poisonous, then it gives these readings to the control unit (ECU), and therefore the unit instructs the injectors to pour much less fuel and the mixture is leaner, that's the whole principle of its work.
Greetings to the readers. Chera I had a landmark event. Remember this entry in the BZ? This story finally got a denouement. Squeezing the clutch pedal every time, I felt that something was wrong there, but my intuition told me that it was necessary to intervene as soon as possible, because the "patience" of my beloved car is not unlimited. long pondered how to carry out the repair. By yourself, or at the station / private trader. Found a compromise. There is a service station in the city where you can rent a lift and a tool, and carry out repairs yourself. What you need!
About the station. Warm, dry, relatively inexpensive, the ability to consult a master when a problem occurs, the ability to use a specific tool, in my case it was a meter-long knob and a spacer for centering the disc.
About the works After reading the articles on how to replace the clutch (initially I pursued this goal) without removing the box, I set to work, but during the execution I doubted the applicability of this method on Kalina. Perhaps this is due to a lack of experience. (we did it together. Kumets, thank you very much) still had to drain the oil, pull out the shafts, after which the work went faster. Nyav checkpoint were shocked by what they saw, the basket was all beaten by something metal, it was all in kotsk, but not deep. We turn to the inspection of the clutch housing, and there ... At the bottom of the crankcase we find metal debris, remove the clutch release and go nuts.
About the state of the recycle bin and disk. As soon as the box was removed, I noticed that the petals are not on the same level. Perhaps this is due to the uneven bearing of the bearing, it may be a design feature. But later, after removing the basket, the petals were aligned. The wear at the point of contact with the bearing was not significant. yerdict - does not need to be replaced.
The clutch disc externally was without significant wear, but it was worth rechecking. The store compared the thickness of the factory and my discs, dimensions 8. mm and 7. mm, respectively. yerdict - does not need to be replaced.
Before assembly, there was a desire to open the bearing, rinse and lubricate, but the fear of damaging the boot, and thereby making problems, brought the desire to naught.
As they say in the murzilka, the assembly was carried out in the reverse order. There were no special problems along the way. The hydraulic rolling support on which the motor rested was great. THING! When the checkpoint was hung on their supports, it helped a lot. The height can be measured literally by the millimeter.
Summary. The work took 7.5 hours. Of these, we rolled about an hour in search of a clutch release, i.e. until you remove the checkpoint you will not know what kind of clutch kit there is. boxing rent cost 2200, bearing 800. Approximately 2000-2500r. in my city there is a clutch replacement and you can talk indefinitely about the advisability of repairing yourself or on the side. I decided to work on my own and I do not regret it at all. the experience gained in the course of the work is not appreciated, and the nuances that you come across are usually not specified either in the articles or in the video. how much does it cost, the satisfaction that you get from a successful (!) work done? ))
That's all. Thanks for the comments. Let your "iron girl" never refuse you.
Wiring diagrams for VAZ - Lada car radios of various models Wiring diagrams for radio from the ignition switch, from the alarm and from the button
In this article, we will consider the methods and diagrams of connecting car radios to cars of the VAZ, Lada, the following models: VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, 2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 2111, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115, Priora, Kalina, Niva, you can find wiring diagrams for newer models at the very beginning of the article on connecting radio tape recorders to cars of various brands. So the schemas:
Standard radio connection diagram for VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, Niva
Wiring diagram of a radio tape recorder for a VAZ from the ignition lock using a relay
Wiring diagram of a radio tape recorder for a VAZ from the ignition lock using a relay (Option 2)
Wiring diagram of a radio tape recorder for a VAZ from the ignition lock using a relay (Option 3)
Wiring diagram of a radio tape recorder for a VAZ from a button using a relay
Wiring diagram of a radio tape recorder for a VAZ from an alarm using a relay
Wiring diagram for VAZ 2107 radio with injector
Radio connection diagram for VAZ 2109, 2109, 21099
Radio connection diagram for VAZ 2109, 2109, 21099. Pinout of contacts (for all VAZ models)